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Grayson Baker
Grayson Baker

Patch Holes In Concrete


Concrete surfaces crack by nature. To underscore their brittle nature, specially designed joints placed in concrete help promote controlled cracking. But when a crack happens elsewhere in the surface of a walkway, driveway or patio, without the proper concrete repair, the surrounding concrete may begin to fall apart, too.




Patch Holes In Concrete


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The best concrete patch for cracked concrete can take a deteriorated, unsafe surface and make it smooth and even again. But, before you can fix that worn concrete, there are a few points to consider when buying the best concrete patch. The following sections will outline the top considerations to keep in mind when shopping for the best concrete patch.


Unlike concrete mix, which is a blend of portland cement, gravel, and sand, concrete patch contains polymers and additives to make them stickier and more flexible. These patches come in the form of acrylic, vinyl, or an epoxy base. You can also use a straight mixture of concrete, but it might not adhere as well to the damaged surface.


Vinyl and latex are pretty similar. Both products bond well and create a waterproof barrier that keeps water out which prevents more cracking. However, for thinner layers, the flexibility of a latex patch may provide an advantage over an acrylic-based patch.


Some of the best concrete patch compounds work best for smaller cracks and thinner layers, while others better serve large areas or bigger chunks. Whether the crack is on the ground or in a wall makes a difference, too. Regardless of the repair, however, most patches dry harder than concrete.


For smaller cracks, an easy-to-apply, premixed compound in a tube may be all you need. For large chunks, some DIYers prefer a bag of dry mix they can fine-tune to the ideal thickness. Do understand that patch compound for walls is typically thicker than floor patch as it needs to stick to a vertical surface without running.


For a simple concrete patch product that comes ready-mixed and is easy to use, consider our top pick from Red Devil, which comes in a 1-quart container and is reasonably priced. Shoppers looking for more control over the mixing process will appreciate the quality materials used in the Damtite Super Patch Repair, providing a strong, permanent, and waterproof finish.


When gathering our recommendations for concrete patch products, we looked at popular brands known for using quality materials that create reliable concrete repairs to cracks as well as resurfacing projects. We made sure to include options for both ready-mixed solutions and powders that users can mix to their own specifications. Our list of top picks allows users to narrow their search down to specific categories that will best suit their needs.


Concrete patches generally promote adhesion, but there are a few additional steps you can take to make extra sure your patch stays put. Mixing a concrete adhesion promoter solution into the patch helps. Also, you can create a wetter mix and spread it over the repair, allowing it to cure. Once cured, it will promote better adhesion between the existing concrete and a thicker layer of patch.


For my repair, I used a concrete bonding agent called Weld-Crete and applied it to the surface area within the existing hole in the foundation. I applied it using a paint roller which made it easy to apply quickly.


To actually repair/fill the hole, I chose to use Rapid Set Concrete Mix. Although this rapid setting concrete is a little more pricey than standard concrete, it sets up in 15 minutes, which makes it much easier to work with for this repair.


Although you can usually to get a decent concrete finish by using only your hands (and gloves, of course), I recommend that you ensure that your repair is completely flush with your existing foundation wall by using a concrete trowel. Use the concrete trowel to smooth out any imperfections and blend the new concrete into the existing foundation. Basically, make it smooth.


Once you have given your concrete foundation repair sufficient time to dry, the last step is to simply paint your repair to match the existing foundation color. However, I understand that finding an exact color match may be difficult. I actually ended up re-painting my entire foundation for a uniform color/finish. I used my Graco Project Painter Plus which made this painting process super quick and easy.


Bonus tip: I did not apply re-bar or steel mesh to my concrete foundation repair, but this may be a good additional step to add increased strength to your concrete/cinder block foundation repair.


Holes in concrete floors can be caused due to remodeling activities or due to sudden impact action of a heavy object. Usually, the removal and rearrangement of plumbing fixtures leaves undesirable holes on the concrete floor surface which needs quick fix to proceed with further works like painting or tiling.


When applying to smaller voids or pinholes, the patch can be mixed with water to a slurry-like or paste consistency and rubbed into the voids/pinholes with a gloved hand. After allowing it to dry, usually 4-6 hours, the patch can then be sanded smooth. If the hole being filled is deeper, the Counter-Patch may take longer to cure. If the void is quite large, gapped, or even concrete is missing from the edge, this same patch can be mixed thicker to repair and rebuild. In this case, you would mix the patch with water to a putty consistency. The void can be filled with the patch a little at a time. You will not fill it in all at once, it can be built up with a few applications. Once built up, a piece of edge form can be used to help reshape/reform the edge.


Once all patching and repairing are complete and areas are sanded smooth, the top is ready to be colored and sealed. Although the patch can be stained, it can take stain differently than the concrete due to the modifiers in it, so expect some color variation when using a patching product like Counter-Patch.


Stucco is one of the most durable wall surfaces available, but because of its rigid nature, stucco can develop cracks and holes over time due to settling and impact damage. Once a crack or hole develops it is important to seal it from water to prevent further deterioration.


The HP Concrete Cold Patch is a Ready-to-Use product with no water or mixing required. Simply cut open the bag, pour and tamp. It's the perfect cement repair product to keep around on the truck for those quick repair jobs making it the perfect product for city maintenance crews or paving contractors with jobs that don't require concrete cut-out and replace.


Crafco HP Concrete Cold Patch is a unique, gray colored, cold applied, single component patching material. Use HP to repair potholes, spalls, cracks and other confined voids and distresses over one inch wide (2.5 cm) and greater than 1/2 inch (1 cm) deep in Portland cement concrete. It can be used to repair roads, highways, streets, airport pavements, parking lots, bridge and parking decks, sidewalks, walkways and floors. Unlike most other concrete patching materials, no mixing, heating or special installation equipment is required.


The short answer to this is probably not. When a tree develops a hole or if that hole gets larger and creates a hollow tree, most of the time, it is only the heartwood that is affected. The tree only needs the bark and the first few layers beneath the bark to live. These outer layers will often be protected by their own barriers from the rot that creates hollows and holes inside the trees. As long as your tree looks healthy, it is unlikely that the hole in the tree will harm it.


When you find holes and hollows, you need to make sure that you do not damage the outer layers of the tree in the areas of the holes. This can cause damage to the natural barrier and allow the rot to get into the essential outer layers of the trunk, which then can kill the tree.


In the past, it was often recommended that filling holes in tree trunks was a good way to correct the tree hole. Most tree experts now agree that this advice was incorrect. Filling holes in trees causes problems for several reasons. The material that you fill the tree hole with will not react to the weather in the same way the tree wood will. The material you use will expand and contract at a different rate, which will either cause more damage to the tree or can create gaps where water (which leads to more rot) and disease can get trapped.


Not only that, but if the tree must be removed at a later date, fill materials can create dangerous situations to the person removing the tree. Imagine if someone using a chainsaw were to hit a concrete fill that they were not aware of in the tree. If you have decided that filling a hole in a tree trunk is your best option, make sure that you use a softer material, such as expanding foam, to do so.


The recommended method for patching a tree hole is to use a thin metal flap or screening covered with plaster over the tree hole. This will prevent animals and water from entering the hole and create a surface that the bark and outer living layers can eventually grow back over.


Before patching a tree hole, it is a good idea to remove any water from the hole and any soft rotted wood. Do not remove any wood that is not soft as this can damage the outer layer of the tree and allow disease and rot to enter the living part of the tree.


Jim, snap tie holes should be sealed with something, but what product is best depends on what you're sealing the foundation with. Typical asphalt emulsion damp-proofing does not really span gaps; I have used hydraulic cement to patch the holes before applying damp-proofing. Damp-proofing is the minimum protection required by the IRC. Heavier-duty sealers such as elastomeric membranes may not require that snap ties are sealed first.


Builders here have been using flat-ties for decades on almost all their house foundations. I've never seen them sealed or patched, and I'm not sure it's even possible to effectively do so. The below grade portions of the wall are protected by whatever damp-proofing you use, and I've never heard of any problems with those that are above grade. If you wanted to hide them for aesthetic reasons I'd try sanded grout.


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