Where To Buy Ml Campbell Stain
M.L. Campbell is the leading manufacturer of wood coatings for cabinetmakers, millwork, and casework wood shops, architectural designers, and other professional woodworkers. From their clear topcoats, wood stains, dyes, sealers, primers, undercoats, and wood glazes: DSI distributes them all.
where to buy ml campbell stain
ML Campbell manufactures high performance wood coatings and has been supplying the industry with products for over 100 years. They strive to improve the world we live in, and in doing so, continue to create finishes and coatings with minimal environmental impact. They have produced low VOC coatings and formaldehyde and isocyanate free products, without sacrificing durability. We are pleased to offer their finishes, stains, dyes, glazes, solvents & reducers, specialty products, and catalysts.
They focus strictly on ML Campbell stain wood coatings and incorporate the best of both European and North American technology to create a whole line of excellent finishing products and systems. Wood finishing experts love ML Campbell stain, clear topcoats, dyes, pigmented topcoats, and other products.
Apart from wood coatings, ML Campbell also provides WoodSong II spray-and-wipe stains which you can apply over other wood finishes. The good news is that there are several ML Campbell stain colors to choose from.
WoodSongII StainWoodSong II Spray and Wipe Stains are fast drying alkyd resin based stains that are GREENGUARD certified and designed for spray or brush application and are developed to have excellent wiping properties. These stains can be re-coated with lacquers after 30-45 minutes dry. The wiping ability is designed to provide medium open time and faster re-coating with clear lacquer, compared to the higher solids WS2S200 series. The pigments used in these products are resistant to fading and will not bleed.
M.L. Campbell Klearplast is a single component water white CAB acrylic clear finish specially designed for light colored interior wood surfaces where a non-yellowing, fast dry, durable finishing system is required.
Woodsong StainFast drying spray and wipe wood stains that can be recoated with lacquers or other industrial wood finishes. This fast dry formula (30-60 minutes) applies by spraying and wiping the stain directly on the wood to be finished.
Woodsong Microton TonersWoodsong Microton Toners were developed to act as the first step in staining light colored woods (oak, pine, birch etc.) to a darker color such as mahogany. When used as a first stain coat, this spray-only toner uniforms the tone of the wood's color, making an even base for the application of Woodsong Microton Toner.
I know someone is going to mention that it looks like the wood has had a placed a slice of pizza on the wood and the stain was not able to penetrate but the wood was clean, dry and free of pizza grease.
Traditional Minwax stains use boiled linseed oil as a binder to fix the pigment to the wood surface. Once the blo is cured, the stain is pretty securely held in place. It sounds as if the solvent in your varnish is softening the binder in your stain; once softened, the friction of a brush will drag the pigment around.
The product descriptions I found for Woodsong Stain didn't specifically say it had to be topcoated via sprayer, but seemed to imply such. In that case, the next coat would cover and bind the pigment in place. If the stain is ready to cover with sealer or finish in only 30-60 minutes I would expect minimal binding within the stain itself.
It would seem that any stain or lacquer would allow for enough of a binder that the lacquer wouldn't strip the stain off of the wood. Even when spraying, I would think that any sort of pigment mixing into and coloring an otherwise clear lacquer would not be satisfactory.
I'm unsure of whom I should be most disappointed in, myself for not doing even more test samples than I did, Woodsong for not mentioning on their label that "thou shalt not brush on lacquer", or my stain salesman of whom I explained my finishing process and didn't warn me. I suppose I should be most disappointed in myself. Lord knows my customer is, of which stopped by for a visit today to check out his new computer server cabinet that I was supposed to have delivered yesterday.
Does this sort of thing happen often? Have you heard of this problem before? I have never had this problem before, although I've also never used Woodsong stain before. What I'm doing here is looking for a scapegoat.
The problem stems from using the wrong lacquer topcoat. Your stain is a lacquer based stain. You would think that would mean lacquer was a suitable topcoat, but that's only partially right. Remember that lacquer alway redissolves, to a degree, the lacquer below it--it's called burning in. But, with the brushing lacquer, not only do you get lots of burn in from the slower evaporating thinner, but you also have the mechanical action of the brush. M.L. Campbell is a commercial brand, they would never expect the topcoat lacquer to be brush on lacquer. Sprayed lacquer flashes off much more quickly, letting any binder for the stain that was redissolved to dry in place without being brushed away.
Where from here. Remove the stain and lacquer with lacquer thinner. You can't sand much if any, since you are using plywood. Then, if you were happy with the coloration from the stain before you applied the brushing varnish you can use the same stain product. I would use the ML 'Campbell pre-stain rather than another brand. Staying with-in a system is best.
Well I'll put m2cw in here and it's the way I've been taught and it works for me. Preconditioners would not cause an issue just help control blotching. I was taught you don't use the same vehicle type from color to top coat. What I mean by that is if you use an oil based stain and you apply an oil based topcoat and in your case brushing it on, you will dislove the color and it will pick it up. Two ways to avoid. Either mix they types (oil over water or vise versa) or spray a coat of 1/2 lb shellac over it to but a barrier between the two if oil top coat over oil stain. For this very reason I prefer WB dyes for color and an OB top coat. Although with the new gov't regs oil based anything will be a thing of the past in a few years it will all be WB. Good luck.
I have a similar question. I have been creating interior finish work (window frames, mantel, etc) and finishing them with a water-based TransTint stain, then a Min-Wax stain and finishing up with three sprayed on top coats of Hydrocote Polyshield a water based aliphatic polyurethane. The color is spectacular but I am wondering about longevity. Hydrocote suggests not using an solvent-based pigmented wiping stain because the oils may affect top-coat adhesion. Hydrocote also suggests that should it be necessary to use oil-based stains they should not be allowed to dry over 24 hours since the oils polymerize thus creating a possible adhesion issur. In using my chosen finish approach I have noticed that, where I do get some rund in the first topcoat the clear polyurethane has taken on some of the color of the stain which would suggest to me that the stain coat and top coat are adhering. Since I don't want to see the finish coat peeling off at some future time I am thinking about changing to a water-based wiping stain. My question is: will the water-based wiping stain interfere with the water-based tint stain? I don't want the results to become muddy.
To be sure do a test piece. I always do that to see how the wood will react. Use a piece of scrap from the piece you made. WB dye and wb stain i'm not sure why you want both but if both are water they will bleed together I don't know about the adheasion issues because i'm not familiar with the product. Call the mfg of the finish and ask. If your top coat is water then you could go with an alcahol dye, or just seal between coats to keep the bleeding in check. Again thats just my opinion. If you want a pro's advise, I'd call Jeff Jewette (pardon the sp) at homestead finishes. He wrote the taunton book on finishing and was a great help to me and quite personalbe. Give him a call.
I'm confused. What does hydrocoat mean when it says solvent based stains. In my mind this means the lacquer based stains such as that used by the O.P. and Behlen 15 minute stain. Oil based stains, which thin with mineral sprits for ease of application, but have pigments held in place with a binder that is either a thin varnish, oil, or oil/varnish mix. These oil based stains cure, and are no longer soluble in mineral spirits, so I wouldn't call them solvent based.. Since the stain isn't soluble in the mineral spirits then an oil based top coat is OK over fully cured oil based stain. (The binder is often fairly weak and does sometimes let pigment mix with the first coat of a top coat. If this is troublesome in the particular application, a sprayed sealer such as Zinsser aerosol shellac,which is dewaxed, would prevent the problem.)
As long as the stained surface isn't glossy I can't imagine that the Hydrocote product wouldn't adhere to fully cured oil based pigmented stain. It wouldn't bond chemically, but if the surface has sufficient tooth should the topcoat should adhere mechanically. I suppose it is possible that over partially cured stain they can get some degree of chemical cross-linking.
It's worth noting that TransTint isn't a water based dye. It is a concentrate that can be thinned by water, alcohol, or lacquer thinner, or used as a toner in shellac, waterborne finishes, or lacquers. If applied as a dye it remains soluble in all of the solvents and would be subject ot lifting by any of them. TransFast is a powdered watersoluble dye that can be called waterbased. It's your best choice for dying bare wood. I like powered watersoluble dye under an oil based wiping stain. 041b061a72